新澳 一根纱线的时尚化转型　向世界讲述温暖纱线的中国故事

　　本版图片由浙江新澳纺织股份有限公司提供

　　Written by Pan Xiaoqin The pictures are provided by Zhejiang Xinao Textile Inc.

　　近年来，随着中国时尚消费的“觉醒”，消费者对时尚的诉求日益增加。在纺织行业的发展进程中，向时尚产业转型,从产业链上游到终端产品的时尚化发展也演变为一种趋势。

　　在这样的产业变革中，创立于1991年的浙江新澳纺织股份有限公司(以下简称“新澳”)始终以行业引领者的姿态加速向时尚化转型，这不仅是一次在供给侧结构性改革时代对于新消费需求的深度挖掘，也是科技进步驱动下的推动制造向智造转型、加快品牌价值构建的一次全新实践。

　　保暖背后的时尚内涵

　　新澳多年来一直主营毛精纺纱线以及羊毛毛条的研发、生产和销售，产品广泛应用于下游纺织服装领域，是国内外中高端服装品牌的针织原料供应商。站在产业变革的大潮中，，新澳不断为其产品注入丰富的时尚内涵。

　　多年来，公司持续着力于流行色以及针织流行趋势的研发工作，邀请意大利色彩专家驻厂指导，每年都会提前18个月对春夏和秋冬两季流行色进行预测，为下游针织企业提供流行色灵感，引导针织结构的流行方向，变以往的“根据客户需求组织生产”为“引导市场需求并组织前瞻性生产”。

　　这样的理念之变从近年来新澳的参展发布情况就可见一斑。每年春夏和秋冬两季的SPINEXPO国际流行纱线展和Premiere Vision法国巴黎第一视觉面料展上新澳都是不曾缺席的常客。2015年起，公司在行业中与国内外优秀设计师团队合作举办新澳秋冬产品发布会，同时面向国内外新锐设计师举办“尚无境·织未来”(KNIT FOR NEXT)羊毛针织新锐设计师大赛。特别值得一提的是，为了进一步开发纺织时尚运动市场，2017年新澳还专门远赴德国，参加ISPO慕尼黑体育用品博览会，提升了公司在运动领域的影响力。

　　事实上，时尚不仅仅体现在色彩及外观上，一些新技术、新工艺更是担纲时尚盟主。新澳推出的GALAXY系列产品采用超细旦金银丝与极细美丽诺羊毛混合，纱线手感柔软细腻，织物具有色彩亮丽、优柔华贵的特点，充满时尚感；NEXUS产品则采用包芯纺纱技术，羊毛包覆在有弹性的PBT长丝表面，用此纱线生产的织物具有良好的拉伸回复性和保型性......

　　时尚背后的创新支撑

　　时尚化的转型并非一蹴而就，背后离不开设备、技术、人才的强力支撑。

　　2011年，新澳股份开始实施机器换人，通过技术改造，淘汰落后、产能低、耗能高、用工大的生产设备，引进国际先进的、自动化程度高的关键设备及国产配套设备，实现技术改造。

　　近年来，这样的技改步伐持续加大。2016年，公司淘汰了一批效率较低的国产复精梳设备，引进了法国进口的复精梳生产线，产能提升了250%，同一年，公司引进国际最先进的细络联设备，劳动力节省80%的同时质量品质也得到进一步提升。

　　如果说设备的更新是新澳创新的“硬件”，那么技术和人才则是新澳股份创新的“最强大脑”。新澳一直坚持走引进吸收与自主研发相结合的技术创新路线，特别注重产学研合作，不仅与高校、科研院所等研究机构建立紧密合作关系，更与国际羊毛局成立羊毛针织产品研发中心(Knitwear Development Centre)。近三年来，新澳共获得发明专利7项，实用新型和外观专利30余项。多项技术产品获得了嘉兴市科技进步奖以及纺织工业联合会科技进步奖等荣誉，成为行业的创新先锋。“精纺羊毛的抗起球问题一直是行业内的共同难题，公司从工艺技术等方面着手，使抗起球相比正常纱线提高了0.5~1级，大大提高了产品质量，改善了消费者的穿着体验。”新澳股份总工程师陆卫国表示。

　　时尚背后的行业担当

　　在越来越多消费者眼中，环保、绿色正成为时尚的代名词。新澳也早早地意识到，只有做到尊重自然、与自然共生，才是提升企业综合竞争力的重要法宝。

　　结合技术改造契机，新澳对高耗能电机进行换新，仅这一项节能效果就达5%以上。与此同时，公司还利用现有厂房屋顶，大量安装光伏发电项目，年发电量占公司总耗电量的6.5%......在产品开发方面，新澳多项产品通过了RWS、OCS、GRS、OEKO-TEX 100、ECO-LABEL等认证，同时公司也成为了Bluesign的合作伙伴，为客户的生态环保需求提供了有力保证。

　　新澳希望通过时尚化的转型持续做精、做强、做大主业，力争经过三到五年的努力，成为细分行业中单位成本最低、装备水平最高、市场份额最大、研发能力最强、劳动用工最少、成长性和竞争性最好的行业龙头企业；更要以市场国际化、制造智能化、产品高端化、服务个性化、管理精细化为目标，保持全球毛纺行业领先地位。

　　这样的企业愿景正在加速实现中。如今，公司总投资12.5亿元的“60000锭高档精纺生态纱项目”正在全力推进，该项目全部投产后，新澳将有望成为全球精纺羊毛行业最大的生产制造企业。

　　The Fashion Story of A Yarn

　　Xinao: Telling A Warm Story about Yarns in China to the World

　　Fashion with warm-keeping

　　Fashion with technology innovation

　　In recent years, as people’s consciousness of fashion changes, consumers’ demands for fashion are increased. Transforming toward fashion business, and fashion development from industry upstream to final products are now trends in the textile industry.

　　Zhejiang Xinao Textile Inc. (referred to as Xinao), founded in 1991, has been accelerating its fashion transformation as an industry leader in the context. It is not just a profound exploration of new consumer demands as we carry out the supply-side structural reform, but also a brand new practice as manufacture moves toward smart-based manufacture and brand value building, while being driven by technological progress.

　　Fashion with warm-keeping

　　For years, Xinao has been engaged in the R&D, production and sales of worsted yarns as well as wool tops. The products are widely applied in the industry downstream textile and apparels, and Xinao is the knitting supplier for clothing brands ranging from middle to high level in worldwide. As the industrial reform comes, Xinao updates fashion inside the products all the time.

　　Xinao has been dedicated in developing fashion colors and the trends of knitting for years. Italian color experts are invited to stay in the company and provide forecast regarding the fashion colors in spring / summer and autumn / winter 18 months earlier per year, offering inspirations regarding what colors will be popular for downstream textile enterprises, leading the trends of knitting structures, and changing the method from “production based on customer demands” to “prospective production”.

　　The change of mind is reflected in recent exhibitions Xinao attended. Xinao is an indispensable exhibitor for SPINEXPO and Premiere Vision Paris, which are organized in spring / summer and autumn / winter per year. Since 2015, Xinao has been organizing XINAO AW PRODUCTS LAUNCH EVENT working with worldwide designer teams, and KNIT FOR NEXT knitwear designer competition, which is open to all Chinese and foreign designers. It is particularly worth noting that Xinao went to Germany to attend ISPO Munich in 2017 to further develop the fashion sports market for textiles, and Xinao’s influence in sports has been strengthened ever since.

　　In fact, fashion is not just about colors and appearance, some new techniques are also what lead the fashion. The GALAXY series, adopts extra-fine metallic yarns mixed with ultra-fine Merino wool. These elegant yarns have soft hand feel and bright colors. The NEXUS series, adopts the core spinning technique. The PBT filament is wrapped by wool. Fabrics made of these threads have good stretchability .

　　Fashion with technology innovation

　　Fashion transformation cannot be done in one night, equipment, technologies and talent support are necessary.

　　Xinao started its mechanization process since 2011. Backward and manpower-dependent equipment of low productivity and high energy consumption were eliminated through technological modification. International advanced devices, highly automatic machines and domestic made supporting devices are imported to achieve technological modification.

　　Technological modification has been intensifying in recent years. A group of inefficient domestic made recombing equipment were eliminated by Xinao in 2016, and a recombing production line imported from France was introduced which increased the capacity by 250%. In the same year, the most cutting-edge link coner was introduced which not only saved 80% of the labor but also the product quality was further improved.

　　The equipment renewal is just like the “hardware” of Xinao’s innovation, the technologies and talents serve as the “brain” of its innovation. Xinao has been upholding the technological innovation strategy that combines introduction and independent R&D, and it particularly focuses on university-industry cooperation. Not only did Xinao establish close partnership with universities and research institutes, but it also founded the Knitwear Development Center with The Woolmark Company. In recent 3 years, Xinao awards 7 invention patents, more than 30 patents for utility models and designs. Multiple technologies have won awards and honors such as Jiaxing Technological Progress Award and the Technological Progress Award of China National Textile And Apparel Council, all of which make Xinao the pioneer of innovation in the industry. “For example, pilling is a common issue in knitting area. In order to improve the anti-pilling performance, we improve the technologies. Thus compare to normal yarns, the anti-pilling performance of our new yarns is improved by 0.5-1 degree. This successful action improves the quality of our products and give customers a better wearing experience.” said Lu Weiguo, the Chief engineer of Xinao.

　　Sustainable and fashion

　　More and more consumers recognize that Eco-friendliness is becoming the symbol of fashion. Also, Xinao awares the fact that respecting and living along with the nature is important to improve the overall competitiveness of an enterprise.

　　By replacing the energy-consuming motors, the energy-saving efficiency is more than 5%. Meanwhile, Xinao is making the existing plant roofs useful by mounting PV generators on them. Its total power generation accounts for 6.5% of the company’s total power consumption...For product R&D, multiple products of Xinao have been certified by RWS, OCS, GRS, OEKO-TEX 100, ECO-LABEL, and Xinao is a partner of Bluesign, guaranteeing eco-friendliness for clients.

　　Xinao hopes to become the industry leader with the lowest unit cost, highest equipment level, largest market occupancy, strongest R&D capacity, lowest manpower dependence, and best growth and competitiveness in three to five years by becoming better, stronger and expanding the main businesses as it goes through the fashion transformation. In addition, Xinao should maintain its leadership in global wool spinning industry with its efforts devoted in international marketing, smart manufacturing, high-end products, customized services and lean management.

　　All of Xinao’s wishes are accelerating. At present, the “60,000-spindle high-end worsted eco-friendly yarn project”, with 1.25 billion yuan worth of investment by Xinao, has been promoted with no efforts spared. Xinao is expected to become the largest manufacturer of the world’s worsted wool business after the project is completed and put into operation.

编辑：潘竞毅